Day 365: Day 16 of Our Indian Adventure

This morning, we took an early train from Aluva to Kottayam. It was a mere two-hour ride, which is nothing compared to some of the journeys we've been on this trip. And we even splurged for the air-conditioned car. The heat, exhaustion, and overall culture shock must be getting to us!

Anyway, just before noon we arrived in Kottayam, a relatively small city that is home to my very best Indian friend, Kirthy. I met Kirthy at the college. She was in her second year and studying psychology the year I was there to volunteer. It took me almost four months to make a friend whom I trusted enough to be absolutely, completely myself around. But Kirthy is just one of those people - warm and inviting, always ready to share, and always trying to make you laugh.

I still speak to Kirthy (Keer'-tee) frequently. When I get on the computer in the morning before work, Kirthy is often signed in, taking a break from her studies around supper time to check in with the rest of the world. When Brandon and I were planning this trip, it was an absolute must that we see her. Brandon has heard so much about her and has even chatted with her online himself. I'll never forget the time Kirthy started a chat with Brandon, who was signed in under my name. I had already gone to bed, but they ended up talking for quite a while. In the morning, Brandon said, "Guess what! I chatted with 'Kur-thee' last night!" Who??? I still laugh out loud at that.

Anyway, since then, Brandon has learned how to pronounce her name, and we have been so looking forward to getting together with her. Today is a day I have honestly been looking forward to for five whole years. This is a dear friend, who made my year in India so much more than it would have been had she not been a part of it. And back in the USA, I miss her like crazy.

We didn't do anything special today, and we didn't need to. Kirthy showed us around Kottayam and took us for an "American" lunch of fried chicken, pizza, and French fries. Then we walked and shopped and talked and laughed. And just when I thought the day couldn't get a whole lot better, Kirthy's mom came out of the kitchen with the best butter chicken in all of India. Actually, make that in all the world! We ate like we hadn't seen food in two and a half weeks!

And, although we still haven't gotten used to the firm mattresses they sleep on here in India, I have no doubt that we will sleep well tonight, here in the home of our very good friend Kirthy and her lovely family.

Day 364: Days 14 & 15 of Our Indian Adventure

Last night, we arrived in Kerala. It was a long day of traveling. Although Goa is only a two- or three-hour plane ride from the airport in Cochin (Kerala’s biggest city), we had to layover in Bangalore. So our three-hour journey took us most of the day. By the time we arrived in Cochin, we were just exhausted. But we were reenergized when we saw Thomas John (or, as we lovingly know him, Achen) waiting for us with open arms. I ran right up to him and gave him a giant hug - the hug of two very close friends who haven't seen each other in years. Brandon was surprised when Achen embraced him after he'd let me go, but I wasn’t at all. Not only is that just the Indian thing to do, but Achen must feel he’s known Brandon almost as long as he’s known me. No, Brandon wasn’t physically here with me, but he was certainly a part of my year in India.

Speaking of which, I am now home. Aluva, which is about 20 minutes from the airport in Cochin and a relatively small city in Kerala, is where I stayed when I was here five years ago. It is where I have friends and where I know my way around. It is where most of my memories are and where I am capable of noticing the changes that have occurred since I made those memories. Back then, when we were feeling a little bit fancy, we used to eat at a restaurant called Taal, and I was looking forward to taking Brandon there. I noticed today that this restaurant is now called BreadWorld, and it appears to be a combination bakery and restaurant. I’ll still take him there, but it won’t be quite the same.

Some things haven’t changed much at all, though. My favorite bakery was called Royal. I used to get cakes, candies, and other snacks there. (Life in India was so much about the little joys!) Royal Bakery is where I ordered my birthday cake, which I shared with the children in the dalit community. Even though I gave them the correct spelling of my name, the cake said, “Happy Birthday, Shallot.” I still smile when I think of that. Royal Bakery is also a place where Jenika, a volunteer who lived on the other side of Aluva, and I used to meet each other often for lunch or coffee or ice cream. I must have visited Royal Bakery several times a week while I was living in Aluva. I remember taking my parents there for Royal’s version of pizza when they visited. And I took Brandon there for lunch today. They still had the pizza. He liked it but thought it was on the spicy side! I love it, mainly because it was just like I remembered!

On our way out of the bakery, my hands loaded down with Tiger cookies (Brandon just HAD to try those later), I saw recognition in the eyes of one of the workers. I certainly recognized him, although I never did know him by name; but when I smiled and said hello, I was shocked to learn that he actually remembered me. “It has been long time,” he said. Brandon got a real kick out of that. Five years later, I’m still remembered as a “regular” at this bakery! I guess I earned it!

So, full and happy, we went onto our next activity – a trip to the elephant preserve. Nearly six years ago (at the very beginning of my first trip), Achen had taken our group of six volunteers there. We’d ridden the elephant in groups of three that day. Six months later, when my parents visited, they rode the elephant together while I took their picture. Today, I wanted Brandon to ride the elephant too. I’d warned him to wear pants because elephants are not nearly as smooth as they look in pictures; in fact, their hair is long and coarse.

Brandon followed my advice, but it wouldn’t have mattered. The elephant was being given a day off from rides today. When the ticket-taker told me this in his very broken English, I just couldn’t believe it. I was sure I'd misheard him, but I absolutely hadn't. In our hallway at home, we have a picture of me on that elephant nearly six years ago. I’d been planning for years to put a similar one of Brandon up right beneath mine, but now it will never be. To say I was disappointed is a gross understatement. Brandon was, of course, disappointed too. He’d said no to the camel ride in Pushkar in anticipation of his elephant ride in Kerala. And where else in the world is he going to get to do this?

We also spent 600 rupees to get there, and there is simply no time for us to come back later in the week. The whole thing seemed like a big waste of time and money, but we made the best of our time there – taking pictures of a baby elephant, posing with a bigger one while trying not to slip in his giant piles of poop, and watching as the teenagers followed their mom to a work site, where they would haul big bunches of leaves and grass from one area to another.














After this, we killed some time in the “zoo,” where there were simply too many monkeys for my taste. Brandon liked them, though.

On our way home, we pondered our failure of an afternoon. It sure hadn’t gone according to plan, but as we talked it through, we realized that this was really the first time in this big, crazy adventure, that our plans hadn’t worked out. It was the first time that we'd really been unlucky. So we had to laugh it off, and we had to live with it. What else could we do?

In any event, Brandon did get to see this place that I've talked about hundreds of times. He got to see the baby elephant up close, and he got to witness the bigger elephants earning their keep at the preserve. Plus, he really enjoyed those monkeys!








Tonight, after a just slightly disappointing day, we will spend our second of seven nights in Chacko Homes. Chacko Homes is the retirement community where I lived when I was a volunteer. That year, I had one tiny room with a bed, a desk, a chair, and a chest of drawers. This time, we are staying in a three-bedroom apartment that even has an air conditioner. It's not all that nice, really, but it is a huge step up. And it's costing us about nine dollars a night.

It's not necessarily comfortable, but it is India. And some things will never stop surprising me!

Day 362: Days 12 & 13 of Our Indian Adventure

If I knew someone who were just getting over a bad case of Delhi Belly, I would warn them to continue taking it easy for a few days. And I would hope that person wasn't staying at a beautiful resort in Goa, where the food is delicious and the drinks are cheap.

Yes, Brandon and I have been living it up. We woke up Sunday feeling good for the first time since our arrival in the gorgeous state of Goa. And it occurred to us right away that we only had two more days to get a week's worth of fun out of this incredible resort!

So, for two days, we did...







Need I say more?

Day 360: Days 10 & 11 of Our Indian Adventure

People sometimes say that things have to get worse before they get better. That has proved most definitely true of this bug that Brandon and I caught. We had both felt quite a bit better on Thursday (the day of the infamous bikini wax), but it was all downhill from there.

Thursday night, we barely slept again. Both of us were up and down all night long. I got into a habit of getting up to run to the bathroom, reading a chapter in my book, then falling back a sleep. A little time would pass, and I would repeat the process. I don't know how many times this happened over the course of the night. Sometime around four, I must have lost count.

So Friday we were exhausted, and we spent most of the day in bed. We watched TV, read our books and magazines, played cards, and napped. We did go down to the restaurant once. We weren't sure if food would help or hurt us, but we had to put something back into our bodies. Thankfully, the resort has an American menu; we hate to be missing the delicious Indian food, but the last things we need in our bodies are curry and chili powder!

Friday was hard because we felt like we were missing our vacation. We never intended to spend it in a hotel room, and, although we need the rest and recovery time, we just don't want to miss anything!

Fortunately, we woke up feeling much better today. Friday was a relatively good night. We were up and down only a couple times, and we both slept pretty well. We got up just in time this morning to catch the breakfast buffet, and when we'd kept that in for a while, we decided we could probably try to venture out.

So we went to the beach, first Calangute, which is just a five-minute walk down the road from our resort.










So you can see that the beaches here are not the same kinds of "resort beaches" that we would see in a Sandals commercial. They are dirty, just full of litter. It's sad to see people doing that to their own world! I just want to take India by its shoulders, shake it, and say, "Why are you ruining your beautiful, spectacular country?" You can't judge a foreign country by your own country's standards, but this is just so disheartening to see. Still, it's a beach, and we did enjoy walking along it.

We also managed to find some corn on the cob...




We didn't stay too long, though. We ended up making our way through the cities down to the better-known and better-kept Baga Beach. Here, we saw a lot more people bathing in the water. People were splashing and swimming, and some were just sitting - all in their regular clothes! We just waded and watched and were happy.










And on our walk back home, we found a Domino's. Perhaps this is what we needed all along - a day at the beach and a pizza!

Day 358: Day 9 of Our Indian Adventure

Last night, Brandon and I both barely slept. He wasn't feeling too bad by the time the sun went down, but my little, annoying stomach ache had turned into full-blown, angry cramps. They were so bad at times that I had to moan in pain. Poor Brandon, feeling good or feeling bad, could never have slept through that!

So yes, we were up all night. But finally, we both drifted off to sleep, and we were able to stay in bed until late this morning. I woke up still feeling icky, but in the light of day, the aches in my tummy were certainly subdued.

When I decided I was probably well enough, I also decided it was a perfect day to treat myself to a treatment at the resort spa. So I called and made an appointment for a bikini wax. I'm going to be wearing nothing but a swimming suit for the next week, so I figured I might as well. Plus, the service cost the equivalent of three dollar. Yes, three dollars.

You would think this would have been a warning to me...

I went to the spa around one o'clock and told the man at the desk what I wanted. He called the girl out, and she took me into a relatively clean room, where she told me (with her hands) to lie down on the table. I was pretty sure I had to take my clothes off first, though, so I started to do so. And she went right ahead and helped me.

I don't know if I've mentioned it, but the Indian culture does not incorporate a ton of personal space. It's not that big of a deal, but it can be a little surprising at times. Anyway, after this sweet little Indian lady had helped me out of my underwear, we were all set to go.

Now, let me just say that I do not do this all that often. I have possibly had two or three bikini waxes in my entire life, and two or three times it has hurt like hell! But for some reason, in India, it was worse. Much worse. The good news was, it definitely took my mind off of the Delhi Belly.

After she'd waxed me and ripped me several more times, she indicated that she was done and asked me (in so many words) if it was ok. So, excuse me, please, if I have to get a little graphic now, but I looked down at myself, and, well, no, it absolutely was not ok! First of all, it was uneven - all crooked lines and jagged edges. But that was the least of my worries, because, well, the hair was gone from all the wrong places!

I will spare you any further details. Suffice it to say that this little activity did not go according to plan. The lesson in this, I suppose, is that you get what you pay for. In my instance, I also get a funny story from my trip in India to share.

Oh, and a lot of little red bumps. Don't forget those!

Day 357: Day 8 of Our Indian Adventure

This morning, we left the chaos of North India for the respite and peace of Goa. Known as the country's resort state, Goa draws Indian and foreign tourists alike. And when planning this portion of our trip, the most important thing was the resort itself. Goa does have a rich history, and there are plenty of sights to see. But we have done much more than a week's worth of sight-seeing in the past seven days, and now, we want nothing more from Goa than a comfortable room, a couple calm and sunny days, and perhaps a cocktail or two.

Our resort is everything we could have hoped for. The surroundings are gorgeous, from the landscaping outside the rooms to the infinity-edge pool. The room is spacious, comfortable, and clean! The mini-bar is stocked, the restaurant menu is big, and the room service comes quickly!




After the fast pace of our first week, we are so looking forward to a week of rest. We knew, when planning the trip, that we'd need it by now; and we anticipated that this week would go down as our favorite part of this incredible vacation.

The problem is, Delhi isn't totally behind us. On the hour-long drive from the airport to the resort, my tummy started feeling a little funny. I didn't say anything at first, but then Brandon mentioned that he wasn't feeling too well. And as the afternoon has progressed, both of us have just gotten sicker. It could have been the Kingfisher or the "mutton" from Spl. Chikan or anything else that we've been eating. It's probably a combination of many things - basically that entire crazy week all rolled into one big stomach ache. Anyway, a trip to India just isn't complete without a little case of Delhi Belly. I just hope that's all it is.

I mean, here we are, at this beautiful resort, where the pool, the restaurant, the bar, and - oh, did I mention there was a spa - all await us. But as much as we want to enjoy all of these things to the fullest, the only thing we really can do is enjoy the fact that we have a clean and relatively comfortable bed in our room.

So we'll just have to see how this plays out over the next few days. It could be absolutely nothing, and our trip to Goa will go on as planned. Or it could be something, and then our "amazing trip to Goa" will turn into "that time we were sick in Goa."

But I am trying to think positively, so I will say this: At least we are here, at this nice, clean, accommodating resort, rather than trying to make our way, all alone, on an overnight train to who-knows-where!

Day 356: Day 7 of Our Indian Adventure

Yesterday was a long one. In New Delhi, Brandon searched for tablas. He found them with the help of a kind Indian gentleman who, just for the fun of it, wanted to lead us around all morning. We didn't mind, and he didn't want anything in return - just to find us the best deal on tablas and show us the most amazing and amazingly cheap hole-in-the-wall lunch spot. That two-dollar meal (total, not each) may have been our best yet.

So Brandon got his tablas, and then it was my turn to search for something. I could remember very clearly shopping in a market when I visited India five years ago. I just couldn't remember where it was or what it was called, and every time we ask for shopping, the rickshaws only take us to the shops that pay them commission. I figured the only way to get to this market I remembered was to walk there (and hope my feet could recall where to go).

Problem was, they didn't. So we just walked and walked and walked and walked. This went on for five miles or so, until I finally gave up. But by then we were so close the the India gate, we had to keep going.




Then, once we were ready to catch a rickshaw back to the hotel, we couldn't find one. (This never happens!) So we just walked some more. Finally, someone picked us up, and wouldn't you know it - he passed right by the market we'd been looking for all afternoon!!!

I wrote down the street names just in time, and I knew we'd be all set in the morning. I let us sleep as late as we could (we had walked an awful many miles), and this time, rested and reassured, we found the market. We spent the whole day there, haggling with street hawkers and only wandering into the actual shops when we needed a blast of cool, conditioned air.

Then, hands full and pockets empty, we made our way back to Hotel Ajanta for our last night in Delhi. But we refused to go out without a bang, so after we'd cleaned up, we went right back out. We were just going to grab a nice, hearty dinner at one of the restaurants we'd passed on our way home, but on the way we came upon Spl. Chikan, a little street cart where they were selling chicken tikka masala kabobs. And who doesn't need an appetizer? Especially one like that!




So we walked to our restaurant, eating our appetizer and wondering what else might be in store for our last night in Delhi. We chose a dirty little joint where we were sure the food was incredible, and we both ordered something spicy! On our way home, we stopped at the liquor counter for a few last beers - not that they won't have any in Goa, but we are celebrating our last night in Delhi! And, since we were celebrating, we decided to stop at Spl. Chikan once again. No, we weren't still hungry; we were just having a good time.

The chicken tikka masala kabobs were all gone, so they gave us mutton sausage instead. And, as luck would have it, we had a leftover chapati from the restaurant, with which we were able to make a "mutton burrito." Kingfisher, mutton burritos, and card games - this all awaits me back in the room. And is there a better way to spend a last night in Delhi? I think not!

Day 355: Days 5 & 6 of Our Indian Adventure

After a gloriously restful Saturday afternoon and a very good night's sleep, we were once again up with the sun to make our way from Jodhpur to Pushkar, yet another new adventure for me!

We actually took the train to Ajmer. I didn't know much about it, but the rickshaw driver who picked us up assured us it was worth putting off Pushkar for an hour or two to see some of Ajmer's sites. He took us down a busy street, to a place called Dargah Sharif. We couldn't go inside with our backpacks, but it was neat to see from the street. This mosque is the most sacred Islamic shrine in India, and a pilgrimage here is considered second in importance only to a visit to Mecca. There were people everywhere, coming to make this pilgrimage.

We then visited Svarna Nagari Hall, an unassuming building just behind a Jain temple. It's hard to describe, but, as you ascend the steep staircase inside this building, you come upon a sort of fantasy world - a collection of tiny gilded figures that are supposedly celebrating scenes from Jain mythology. It's impossible to make out what any of it means, but it is a sight to behold, regardless.

Finally, our driver took us to a lovely park on a peaceful lake. Remember how we'd become instant celebrities at the Red Fort in Delhi? Well, it happened on a whole new level here. People were running up to us from all over the place, asking if we would take "one photo" with them. We did, of course.




Then we boarded a bus to Pushkar, which is on the other side of a small mountain from Ajmer. We drove up and then down that mountain, and 45 minutes later, we were where we wanted to be.

There isn't a whole lot to Pushkar. It is a pilgrimage site for Hindus, who come to bathe in the holy lake. Other than that, there is a lot of shopping and a few camels roaming around.




But despite this anti-climactic description, Pushkar has, so far, been one of my favorite places. I think it was just nice to spend a day walking around and looking around and just being around, rather than rushing from place to place, praying we had enough time to get everything in. No, yesterday, in Pushkar, we just walked. And we shopped. And we stopped to take pictures of camels and traffic jams. And then we had an incredible dinner.




Later that night, we rode the bus back to the train station. And then we rode the train overnight back into Delhi. We arrived this morning just before six o'clock. Back at the hotel, we had a long shower and a quick nap, and now we are going out to face another day on the streets of this chaotic city. It's New Delhi today; I wonder what new adventures are in store!

Day 353: Days 3 & 4 of Our Indian Adventure

It is a relatively relaxing Saturday afternoon after quite an adventurous Friday! We caught a train out of Agra at 5:10 on Friday morning (don't even ask how early we had to get up to manage that!) and arrived in the city of Jaipur at 9:30.

Jaipur is a city in the state of Rajasthan. You may not have heard of Rajasthan, but you've definitely heard about it. This state is what we Americans often view as the "typical" India. It is the deserts, the camels, and the snake charmers, and the beautiful colors that we see on TV and in movies. It is also home to the three "colorful" cities of Jaipur, Jodhpur, and Udaipur (pink, blue, and white, respectively). We saw the pink and the blue city on this journey but will sadly have to miss the white one. Maybe next time...

Friday we were in Jaipur, the largest city in the state of Rajasthan, with a population of nearly four million (although that's nothing compared to Delhi's 13 million or Mumbai's 16 million). The city is not quite pink, but more of a soft, burnt orange, the color of the sandstone used to erect the buildings of the old city.

There are tons of sites there, and we had to move fast in 110-degree heat to hit them all. Our driver for the day, Raj, was so sweet to us, taking us everywhere we wanted to go and throwing some of his favorites in too! We started at a place called City Palace, which is now mostly a museum but also still houses the royal family of Jaipur. They no longer have any power, but they still have an awful lot of money; well, I guess that means they still have power too.

We walked around there for a little while, then headed right across the street to Jantar Mantar. This is a medieval observatory. Built between 1728 and 1734, it is beautifully preserved but looks more like something out of a science-fiction movie than anything truly functional. We learned, though, that some of the instruments are still used today!




Jaipur is a city I've been to before, and Jantar Mantar was one of my favorite sites. It was so cool to share this wonderfully intriguing place with someone I love. It was so neat to watch him looking around with wonder in his eyes, the same way I'm sure I did five years ago. But it was twice as hot there as it was "cool," so on we went.

Our next stop, Gaitor, was Raj's pick. This was not a place I'd heard of before, but Brandon and I were both really glad Raj took us there. It is a walled garden that houses these gorgeous marble structures that have been erected over cremation platforms. The royalty of Jaipur was once cremated right here!




We were the only people visiting the site, and it was wonderful to share a few moments that belonged to just the two of us before we went on to the Amber Fort - most popular stop in Jaipur.

All of these Rajasthani cities used to be small kingdoms, and many of them have impressive forts that were used for protection, as well as housing for the royalty. The Amber Fort will probably go down as the most impressive fort we see on this trip (although the one in Jodhpur - see below - does give it a run for its money). The thing about the Amber Fort, though, is that you truly appreciate it when you get there, because you most likely walked up a mighty steep hill to reach it. Oh, and you did that in 110-degree heat, by the way!




It's also quite an experience because you are free to explore wherever you want to. There are no roped paths to follow or "Do Not Enter" signs to heed. You just go through one doorway and decide which way to turn. Then you do it again, and again, and again. And just when you think you've gotten yourself lost, there's that first door you walked through!

Who knows how long we played in the fort. We were having such a ball! Finally, though, we were just too hot and too tired to go on. Down the steep hill we went, and as we looked for Raj, we also found some orange "ice candy," otherwise known as as popsicle! That's just what we needed!

Raj picked us up and took us on our way. We had one more quick stop before we were going to call it a day. Jal Mahal is not a place you can actually visit, but it's quite the photo op! Built in 1799, it is literally a floating palace. I can't say much else about it except that it makes for a gorgeous picture!




So after that, we paid Raj. We took down his name and number too, in case anyone we know ever plans a trip to Jaipur. Raj will come with our highest recommendation. Except for his last piece of advice to us, which was to go eat dinner and watch the sunset at Nahargarh Fort, "just a little way up the hill."




It was six pm, and our train didn't leave till one in the morning, so we took the advice and went on our way alone.

It turned out that, "just a little way up the hill" was an hour-long walk (and it's still 110 degrees, remember; plus we have our backpacks with us) up a steep, winding incline that ends about 1200 vertical feet later. Several times, we stopped to wonder if a) this restaurant was really going to be up there and b) if it was even worth finding out. But we had nothing else to do, so we just kept walking and sweating. And wouldn't you know it, we made it to the top. We walked quite a ways further, and just as we were about to give up hope of finding this place, we spotted it. And it really was a little restaurant at the top of a mountain. Better yet, it had ice-cold Kingfisher just waiting to be drunk.

So we sat down, we cooled off, and we ordered up some cold beer and hot food. And then we just rested and enjoyed ourselves, up there on that mountain, as we watched the world go by below us. The city of Jaipur goes on forever; you just cannot see the end of it. But just below our seat on our mountain was a clearing in the rocky sand that is Jaipur's landscape. And in that clearing, little boys and their fathers were playing a friendly game of cricket. We watched them for quite some time, and then their mothers called them in for supper.




The night grew dark, and we decided to make our way down the mountain. We'd had several hours to rest and replenish our energy, and now we just had to make it onto our train, where we would spend the night. The problem was, it had been light out when we walked up the mountain, and as we tried to make our descent, we weren't quite sure what direction to go. At one point we turned left and walked for about 20 minutes without seeing any landmarks. It finally occurred to us that we'd turned the wrong way. So we walked 20 minutes back and were finally on the right course. An hour or so later, we were at the train station.

When we boarded the train, a little boy was already asleep in Brandon's middle bunk. He graciously took the top, but he really regretted it. There is no window up there, and the fan does absolutely no good. I don't think he slept a wink, but just lay there sweating and praying for morning. I slept fine; I always kind of liked India's overnight trains, but poor Brandon had not had a good first experience. (Fortunately, we only have to do that one more time!)

This morning we arrived at the station in Jodhpur just after seven. This was a new city for me, and despite the short night, I was incredibly excited. Even though it was really early, we took a rickshaw to our hotel, where they were gracious enough to let us into our room well before check-in time. Thank goodness, though, because we were able to shower, change, and eat a decent breakfast before we went out exploring for one more day.

Jodhpur is a neat place, but there isn't as much to see here as there was in Jaipur. We really only spend the morning exploring the blue city. We went to Mehrangarh Fort, which was not as pretty as the Amber Fort in Jaipur, but was every bit as impressive in size. Much of this fort has also been made into a museum, so we wandered around, taking in everything from a weapon collection to a room full of intricately painted cradles for royal babies to a hall of palanquins - the large "chairs" that the royalty sit in as they ride along on the backs of elephants! What a cool place.




After a bit of shopping, we went to Umaid Bhawan Palace, which the maharaja of Jodhpur still calls home. Much of the palace has been turned into an overpriced hotel, but some of it remains a museum. Honestly, the tour left a bit to be desired, but the palace itself is gorgeous.




Now, we are back at our hotel - a lovely, restful place with beautiful gardens, a pool, and a bar. After our sight-seeing we went in search of samosas and found the largest, most beautiful samosas we have ever seen. We are going to enjoy those, along with some Kingfisher, as we lounge in the pool. We definitely need a rest. We've had two jam-packed days, and we leave for Pushkar bright and early in the morning.

Day 351: Day 2 of Our Indian Adventure

Yesterday was a hard one. Oh, we were thrilled to be in India, but we were also exhausted from our travels and the nine and a half hour time change. Also, Delhi is a stressful city. With a population density greater than New York City's, it is also known to be one of the most polluted cities in the world. There is an incredible history and many awesome sites to see, but Delhi is not a place where you'd want to spend more than a few days.

We left the city at 6:15 this morning on a train headed for Agra. This is not an impressive city. It is rundown, dirty, and filled with poverty. It is also the site of the Taj Mahal.

I pride myself on my ability to put my thoughts down as words and sentences, but for the Taj Mahal there is simply no appropriate string of letters. Amazing doesn't even begin to describe it. Incredible does not do it justice. Stunning is a gross understatement.

I remember vividly the first time I saw it. After you buy your ticket, you walk into a courtyard, and there is a large gate before you. If there aren't too many people, you can catch a glimpse of the Taj through that gate. That small glimpse made my heart pound and my blood rush the first time. But when I walked through it to behold the Taj in its fullness, right there before me, I was absolutely overcome. I actually (and truthfully, as silly as it will sound) shed tears the first time I beheld this beauty.

I had never and still have never seen anything like it.

I was worried that the second time around would be a bit of a letdown. I was also worried that Brandon wouldn't be all that impressed. (In Delhi, his patience for the sites seemed thin, and I had begun to wonder if it simply wasn't in his nature to go crazy for all of this travel stuff. And if the Taj can't excite you, well, I'm afraid nothing will.) So, as we walked through that gate, I was nervous.

I shouldn't have been.

It was just as I'd remembered - huge, gorgeous, simply overpowering to the senses. I didn't cry this time, but I could have. And when I asked Brandon, "Do you like it?" all he could say was, "Wow." Absolutely wow.

It was standing in front of the Taj Mahal five years ago that I decided for certain I would bring Brandon to India. Yes, I wanted him to see my city and meet my people, but, more than anything, I wanted to share with him what I believe to be the most beautiful, special, wonderful place on Earth. I wanted us to see it, to experience it, together.

We have not even been married for a year, but I believe Day 351 will go down as one of the most memorable days we ever spend together. When we are old, gray, and losing our memories, I will look back on this day, that moment, when we gazed upon the Taj Mahal as a couple. Stunned into silence by the majesty of the place, I will remember that moment as powerfully peaceful and so full of love.




I could have stood there, in that place, in that moment, forever.

But there was more to be done. From the Taj Mahal, we went on to other sites - the Agra Fort, which wasn't quite as impressive as the Red Fort in Delhi; and Itmad-ud-Daula's Tomb, also known as "Baby Taj," built by a female relative of Shah Jahan (commissioner of the Taj) and believed to be a model on which the Taj was based. These sites were neat too (and both of them new to me), and the day was an overall success.

After we'd been dropped off at our hotel this afternoon, where we showered and rested for a little while, we went back outside. Our hotel is only a block from the Taj, so all around us there are little shops and souvenir hawkers. You can't walk down the street without being accosted by several boys, most of them little children, trying to sell you something.

One little boy came up to me and said, "What do you want?" to which I replied, "Nothing." Without hesitation, he said, "I have it. I have nothing!" It made me smile.

All of this can be entertaining, if it doesn't stress you out. And, as has been my theme for the past couple days, I was a little worried about Brandon. He was looking for a few specific things, and I didn't want him to get stressed out before he found them. But, as before, I shouldn't have worried, because here, on only day 2 of our journey, Brandon was completely at ease with his surroundings. He bargained, he negotiated, he told the little boys that were bugging him to buy postcards to leave him alone in no uncertain terms; and he seemed as though he might just be enjoying it all. And then, after all of this went on for a little while, he found what he was looking for - white marble coasters with inlaid stones, looking just like a little piece of the Taj Mahal.

To call this day an incredible success is yet another understatement. I only hope that, as we move on from here, the rest of the trip can live up. But I know now that Brandon can be impressed, will get excited, and might even just end up liking this crazy country I've brought him to.

We will see...

Day 350: Day 1 of Our Indian Adventure

Last night (or you could say early this morning), we arrived in Delhi. We had a moment of panic when we couldn't find a driver holding a sign with our names on it, but we managed to locate him after a while. He took us to Hotel Ajanta, a fairly well-kept place on a street lined with so-so accommodations. Whenever you check into a hotel in India, you are required by the government to give a load of information. On top of the essentials such as name, address, and phone number, you must state your age, gender, and occupation, as well as your passport number, where you came from and where you'll be going next, and how long you plan to be in the country and why.

We were already exhausted from our travels, and our body clocks were nine and a half hours out of whack; but we patiently filled out the forms while one of the staff members went off to find us two sort-of-cold sodas that we hadn't asked for and didn't necessarily want, here at two in the morning.

But we could hardly complain. We'd been in the country for barely an hour and were already experiencing its incredible hospitality. And, wow, we were actually here. We were in India! The planning of this trip has taken over the past several months of our lives, now we were finally here - really, truly here! We were exhausted, but it was surprisingly hard to fall asleep amidst the excitement.

I set our alarm for only five or six hours later. The most effective and efficient way to cure jet lag is to just get up and start getting things done. So that is exactly what we did.

Our first stop was at the Red Fort in Old Delhi. This is a monstrous place, most of which you cannot even view because it is still in use by the Indian Army. Before we went in, we stopped outside to try out all of our new camera's fancy buttons. In the meantime, every passerby (all Indian, of course) stopped to stare at us. Some said hello, some just turned their heads as they walked by so they wouldn't miss anything interesting that we might do (like breathe or blink), and a few asked if they could take their picture with us. Yup, this is what happens when you are a white person traveling in India. You become an instant celebrity.




Once inside, though, we found it rather peaceful. We walked around there for an hour and a half or so, and then it was time to move on to the next thing.

Across the street from the fort is a Jain Temple. The only thing I really know about Jainism is that they build beautiful temples, painted in bright, bold colors. We weren't allowed to take our bags in, so we took turns walking through the small building, trying not to disturb the people who were praying.




From there, we walked to Jami Masjid, the largest mosque in Asia. You go up this huge staircase, and you must leave your shoes at the entrance. A little old man sits there watching them, and you pay him 10 rupees when you collect them on your way out. I also had to wear a robe over my clothes, as my cotton capris and t-shirt were not appropriate dress for the mosque. After we were all situated, a man followed us inside; we didn't know who he was or why he was talking to us, but to be polite, we listed as he told us the history of the mosque. We found some of this information interesting, but mostly we just wanted to be left alone. That, however, was not to be. Oh well...

But as we walked out of the mosque (in a hurry, as it was nearing time for prayers), this man asked us for a tip. And thus, we learned that here in India, it's very hard to get something for nothing (even something you don't want!). But, we only had enough money to pay the shoe man, and on top of that, we were angry that we'd been tricked; so we walked away without giving him a single cent, or rupee! He yelled after us, "It's not right, it's just not right," but what did he really expect?

I tried to laugh it off, but Brandon was upset. And why shouldn't he be? We paid the fee to get into the mosque, we paid the fee to bring in our camera, and we paid the fee to have our shoes watched; why should we also have to pay a fee for some unwanted guide to follow us around inside? And that's the last time we'll do that! But, while I was trying to take it as a lesson learned, Brandon was still fuming. I totally understood that, but I was worried that this negative experience would ruin the day, and possibly even the rest of the trip. "This is not what it's like everywhere!" I wanted to assure him, but that was neither the truth nor all that important in the heat of the moment.

So I did the only thing I could think of. I got Brandon his first samosa! That, plus a bit of time, did just the trick, and Brandon was relatively happy again. But he was also hot and tired and losing his patience with Chandni Chowk, which is possibly the most chaotic street in the world. So, we started planning our getaway, which involved getting through a parade (as I said, most chaotic street in the world) and finding a rickshaw driver who knew where our hotel was. It took us quite some time to succeed, but for our efforts, we were rewarded with a liquor store (well, maybe I'll call it a liquor counter) right there on the side of the road. Brandon paid the equivalent of about five dollars for four large (650 mL) beers, and just like that, the day was salvaged.

Now we are back at the hotel, where we have showered, eaten, and checked our emails. Our beer if chilling in our semi-cold fridge, so now we'll head back to the room, "drink" in our first day in India, and try to stay awake until it's bedtime on this side of the world. I don't know how long we'll make it. Then again, where there's cold beer, there's a way!

Day 348: Upcoming Adventure

This evening, we will fly out of Miami, through Zurich, and into Delhi, India. I've been planning this trip in my mind since the day I got back from my first adventure in that amazing country. There have been moments throughout those five years when I wasn't sure that my dream would ever become reality.

But here I am, after years of dreaming, months of saving, and countless hours of planning. Here I am, nearly ready, to take off on what I hope will be the trip of a lifetime for Brandon and me.

I always felt a little bit guilty, leaving Brandon for that year. Who in their right mind would make a conscious choice to leave someone they love so much, for such a long time? But we were young, and we needed to live our lives. Brandon had to finish college, and I had to try to figure out what I was going to do with my life after graduation. (The best plan I could come up with was simply to put the decision off for a year.)

It wasn't an easy year; no, it was challenging in so many ways, on so many levels. But it was also a beautiful, eye-opening, change-me-for-the-better experience, and it is one I've wanted to share with my husband for a long, long time.

So here we are, putting the last of our items into our overstuffed suitcases, making sure the light timers are working, and giving away all of the not-yet-spoiled (but-will-be-when-we-get-back) food from our fridge. Yes, it's all down to the little things, and I'm doing as many as I can in as little time because I simply can't stand to sit still. (Anyway, I'll be sitting plenty still for 20 hours or so as we cross to the other side of the world.)

So here we are, about to go to India!

Day 346: Domestic Goddess Part II

A couple weeks ago we learned that I actually do have a capable hand in the kitchen. However, cooking is not my favorite way to spend time, especially when I have have a lot of other things to do. But since it's summer, and I don't have a ton going on aside from Netflix, Nook...oh, and navigating the globe in a couple days (more on that later), I have really taken to the kitchen lately.

Now, if you've known me for a while, you might be aware that I have subsisted for most of my adult life on Hamburger Helper and Hot Pockets. (This is why I go to the gym so often!) I have had my moments of success in the kitchen, but I don't tend to try anything too complicated. I mean, really, who has the time? I've been lesson-planning 24/7 for the past nine months. Food has been the last thing on my mind!

But as I said, I am capable. And when I have the time to find cooking enjoyable, I actually do. This is especially true on a night like tonight, when my efforts are rewarded with rave reviews from the most important critic (aka: my husband).

So what is it, you ask, that my husband loved so much? It was simple, really - just some pasta and sauce. But it was special because, rather than pouring the marinara out of a jar, I made my own. I had the help of a recipe, but I improvised a bit too. And the result was pure and simple deliciousness. That I made!!!

Being a wife is (obviously) not just about providing a quality meal for your husband. But being married is about taking care of each other in whatever way you can. Tonight I did it with food. And it was amazing!

Day 345: Brandon's Bad Day

Yesterday was my official first day of summer break. The kids have been gone for several days now (wow, the school is quiet!), but I've been wrapping up and cleaning up all my own stuff. Yesterday, though, I actually got to sleep in late (despite that 4:30 wake-up call of Brandon's), wake up to Kahlua in my coffee (cuz why not, right?), and simply laze about all day (trying to set records on Netflix, obviously). And today I did much of the same.

I haven't been this relaxed - and therefore this easy to be around - in nine full months! It's very clear that summer is not for the students at all, but for their poor, overworked, underpaid teachers. And since we've been married, poor Brandon has not had even one chance to come home to a relaxed, calm, nothing-on-her-mind wife. Until now. You'd think this would make him incredibly happy. Yesterday, it did. But today...

Oh, today...

We'd been planning on having a friend over tonight, and she got here a few minutes before Brandon was due home. We ordered a pizza and poured some wine, and by the time Brandon showed up, everything was ready and waiting. (Ok, so ONE piece of pizza was gone!) I expected him to be so happy when he walked through the door. But it was clear he wasn't when he grabbed a piece of pizza, said nothing but "hey," and went to the bedroom.

What was up?

I ran after him to find out. He didn't want to talk about it, but I could tell that he'd simply had a rough day. Of course, we've been through this before - it could be a difficult call, a mean boss, an idiot colleague, or a combination of any of the above. He didn't need to tell me exactly what it was for me to know that he just needed some time to get over it.

I wanted to comfort him. I wanted to say something to make it better. I wanted him to get over it and come have a fun night.

But in this first year of marriage, I've learned this very important lesson: Sometimes, not even your favorite girl and your favorite food combined can change your mood. And sometimes you need to just be allowed to have a bad day.

Day 338: Last Day of School

Today was the official last day of school, and there are simply not words to describe how incredibly amazing that feels.

I don't mean to be generic with my emotions; there are just so many of them coursing through me - relief, satisfaction, joy, excitement, gratitude - and they are all positive! Which is why I call this feeling amazing!

So yes, we know how I feel about it, but what does it really mean? Well, It means that, when I have something to read, it won't be a teacher's edition and when I have something to watch, it won't be on Discovery's educator's page. It means I have time that is really, truly free!

And what does it mean for my marriage?

Well, it means that, when Brandon wakes up at 4:30 in the morning, I will NOT be waking up with him, unless he is running late and needs help getting his lunch put together. It means that, when Brandon goes to bed at 8:30 the next night, I'll be able to stay up and do whatever I want, unless I'm tired enough to go to bed myself after getting up that morning at 4:30.

Hmm...perhaps I'm just exchanging one job for another. From teacher of precious children to care-taker of needy husband. Do I want this job?

Obviously, I do. I can complain forever, but in reality, I think it's going to be incredibly fun to play housewife for a summer. I can actually keep the house clean on my own, and Brandon won't have to hear me nagging at him to help me for an entire three months. I can have an impressive dinner on the table each night, and Brandon won't have to roll his eyes at yet another night of grilled cheese and tomato soup. I can watch movies, read books, and write blogs all day long, and Brandon won't have to listen to my crazy stories about my crazy kids.

Yup, this is going to be a pretty great break for both of us. It's been a hard year, professionally, and both of us need a break.

Well, here it comes!

Day 336: Eleven Months Down, One To Go

It is the first of June. At this time last year, I was making last-minute arrangements for our wedding festivities. I was nervous because I had to bake a bunch of cupcakes, and I was stressing because I had to find just the right shoes. (And then I realized, actually, I didn't; our wedding was going to be barefoot on the beach! Let's just call that a "bride moment!")

This is my last month as a newlywed. Thirty days from now, it will be our one-year anniversary. Beginning July 1, 2011, we will no longer celebrate our anniversary in months, but in years. And hopefully there will be many of them.

This one-year anniversary is going to be a bittersweet moment. Obviously, I'm thrilled to be celebrating a full year of marriage to my best friend and the love of my life. (And boy, do we have the anniversary celebration planned!!! Just you wait...) But there is a part of me that's sad to say goodbye to this precious first year as a married couple. We waited an awful long time for it, and we've really enjoyed it; but soon, we won't be in it, but we'll be looking back at it saying, "Remember the first year we were married when...?"

Sigh.

The end of newlyweddedness means the end of other things. For instance, we can no longer answer that dreaded "Do you (or are you going to) have any children?" question with a simple, "Oh, we actually just got married!" Now we'll need a real answer.

And yet, what is the real difference in our lives between June 30 and July 1? It's just a date on a calendar, and it's not going to change how we feel about each other. Yes, it's the end of something big - our amazing first year of marriage. And then again, on the other hand, nothing is ending at all! In fact, our marriage has only just begun. And I plan to celebrate an awful lot of anniversaries (the yearly ones).